Surviving is everthing

In Bahia de los Angelas there is a little settlement which is just called Bahia de los Angelas Village. It is the only place possible, in this region, to do some grocery shopping and to get reasonable internet access. We have been anchored here for a few days, to check the news, reply to our emails, and talk to Ursel, Renate's Mum. We also needed to update our blog and stock up with fresh vegetables and drinks. The shopping was quite sweaty work, so to cool off we jumped into the sea to swim and relax. While there, we cleaned below the waterline, which took us only one hour working together with brush, scraper and suction cup. 

By now we have developed a routine to prepare Taiko for take off. The sun cover have to be taken down, the foresail boom crutch is removed/stored away and the hatches closed. Then the dinghy is craned aboard, using a pole and handy billy, turned upside down and secured amidships. Afterwards we dismantle the crane lash it down to the deck. In between one of us has checked that everything is secured below deck. When the instruments are turned on, we hoist the main sail first and then the foresail. Often we do not use the engine to weigh anchor and usually sail off the anchor. The whole procedure requires only 30 minutes.

Also, often we sail onto an anchorage, dropping the sails in last minute and to let the anchor fall. We did this in the anchorage of Bahia de Animas after a pleasant sail, arriving in the late afternoon. That night we had some strong winds and in the morning we realized we had dragged 300m further offshore. This is the first and only occasion our Bull Wagga anchor didn't hold us in place. 

 

   Approaching  Bahia de las Animas

 

We liked this anchorage, it had a narrow beach and then a steep escarpment with a flat plain behind it, which was ideal for hiking. We had our first shore excursion at high tide. On the beach we found old whale bones, but also a lot of plastic waste. We hiked across the plain to the next small bay, which was just big enough to anchor a boat in. We wanted to explore this possibility and with the portable depth gauge we rowed the dinghy to this small bay. However when we arrived there at low tide the bay was completely blocked with a stone barrier. The lovely beach and bay behind was made inaccessible by this barrier. We were amazed and a little disappointed. At low tide everything looks different, we laughed at ourselves that we could be so naive.

 

the small bay in front of the big one
 

 

 

 

 

 the little bay at low tide

 

From our anchorage we went on some other hikes and did some snorkeling. There were a lot of turtles and for a whole day we had a small pod of dolphins in our bay.

 

  

The weather forecast promised a change in wind direction which prompted us change anchorage and move to Ensenada de Pescador, the next sheltered bay, were several yachts were anchored.

We dug out the sewing machine and sewed several awnings for Taiko after getting some sun shade fabric from Sunpiper (thanks Kate and Leo).

At the same time winch covers and new flags were sewn; both our Mexican courtesy flag and German flag were completely blown out.

 

Rowing to a social gathering on the beach.

 

 

Three days later the wind turned again to the south and an uncomfortable swell came into the bay. We actually wanted to do more here, but safety comes first and we lifted the anchor. The 3½ NM to the next anchorage gave us a very quick sail. Taiko reached a top speed of 8 kt. and was never over powered or uncomfortable.

On taking the opportunity for another desert hike at this anchorage we happened to spot a patch of unusually bright colour. On further investigation this proved to be a lot of empty plastic containers that were taped shut, these appeared to have been bound together in a fertiliser bag to form a float. We learned from other sailors that there were several bundles on the neighboring beach. We suspect they came from a drug drop and ended up on land instead of in the water. The actual cargo was probably picked up and the rest simply left behind. Renate was quick to salvage the containers for or domestic use. She dislikes waste, just like her mother.

 

 

  

Plastic container, presumably drug drop

 

Bees are a problem in the desert of Baja California. Naturally, there is little fresh water in the desert and like every living creature bees need water to survive. Consequently the Baja bees are adept at locating any source of water which includes condensation on the deck of anchored yachts as well as any fresh water remaining in or around the galley and head sinks. We have net screens to prevent them coming below decks. Early morning and late afternoon are the worst time for bee swarms forming around the boat. The bees are not aggressive but one must exercise caution when on deck, being careful where one steps or what one handles, to avoid being stung. We have both been stung multiple times. My skin has reacted with a large uncomfortable swelling of about 100mm in diameter or a fat stiffened finger or toe. I had always regarded this as a minor irritation rather like sunburn and a hang over. Recently, we were forced to reappraise this attitude.
On Friday 28th of August I was stung again, on the inside of my big toe. We removed the sting and I continued about my business cursing the damned bees. A few minutes later I felt faint and unwell and had to lay down on the settee berth, calling to Renate as I did so. Within a few minutes I had gone into anaphylactic shock with all symptoms of respiratory distress, intense sweating, the feeling of pins and needles all over my skin, weak pulse and loss of consciousness. A terrified Renate had me breathing into a paper bag while she administered a tranquilliser, and bodily manipulation. Eventually I recovered and slept for the rest of the afternoon.

       one boat left a bowl of water out.                                  a short time later.

If, the day before, I had been asked ‘are you allergic to bee stings?’, I would have answered ‘no’. Now I must carry antihistamines when their is risk of being stung.

It was time to set sail for town and civilisation again. On the one hand we wanted to go to the doctor to get some emergency medication for my allergic reaction and on the other hand to vote online in the New Zealand national election and referendums . We think it's great that, even though we're so far away, we can still exercise our civil rights. However, we only found out that the election had been postponed by 4 weeks because of the new Covid19 lock-down in Auckland.

Our visit to the “medical centre” was not as expected. The doctor was extremely young and didn't speak English. Renate's Spanish was good enough for her to explain what happened and we came away some antihistamines and prescription for injectable epinephrine. No charge, even though we offered to pay. At the pharmacy we encountered only a sales assistant who informed us the pharmacist would be out town for a week and that injectable epinephrine was not available. Fortunately, we were given an 'epi-pen' by Marga from the yacht Dog Fish which will tide us over until we get Guaymas. We shall, in the next day or two, meet an American sailing doctor who will give us more epinephrine in a vial and a syringe in case of emergency. He will also help us obtain a common steroid from the local pharmacy. I conclude I have been well cared for despite the relative isolation of a very small Mexican community.