San Carlos to Guaymas

The two days spent in San Carlos Marina were packed with frantic research activity in which we strove to find the best option for haul out, dinghy building and proximity to supplies and services. San Carlos was a possibility but again prices were too high, by our standards, for the services offered. Additionally, anything that one may require in terms of hardware or materials meant making a trip to Guaymas by public transport. Public transport in this area is not to be taken lightly. The buses are, without exception, old American school buses that must have been taken out of service decades ago and as such using them contrasts greatly to our recent use public transport in Europe, or even the limited extent of the bus network in Whangarei. The first bus we boarded had some serious wear in the steering mechanism in that the driver had to turn the wheel about a quarter of a turn before there was any positive effect on the direction of travel. The brakes seemed to function well enough though. All the buses are very rattly and noisy. The buses are all privately owned and service a fixed route for a fixed fee of seventeen pesos or less, which is less than NZ$2. There are plenty of them and one never has to wait long before a bus turns up.
Our search lead us to Marina Fonatur, Guaymas. Fonatur is a state organisation that owns marina facilities throughout Mexico which are usually cheaper than other marinas. Though the hardstand was full the marina was empty except for one other boat. We were warmly welcomed and told that there would be space for us (me) to build a dinghy in the shade at no extra charge. The charges were reasonable, so with an end to the no dinghy misery in sight we took off back to Marina San Carlos and made ready to leave the next day.
While the distance form San Carlos to Guaymas by sea is only about 15Nm it was very pleasant to be at sea again and we decided to anchor out for a night on the way. Again the wind was very light but we did manage to sail some of the way wing and wong. The anchorage was pleasant, though a little rolly and no insect plague.

Sailing as wing and wing as Americans say.

Wing and wong for junkies.

Immediately after settling in to Marina Fonatur we set about organising for forthcoming events. Renate would be flying home to NZ from Los Angeles in about a week so it was decided that we should combine her journey to LA with a shopping trip to Tucson and Phoenix, in Arizona, to obtain the things that were impossible to obtain in Guaymas. Before setting off with a long list of items to purchase we spent two pleasant evenings playing music with Tony from the vessel Dulce, the only other yacht in the marina mentioned earlier. Tony is a proficient whistle player who knew almost all of the tunes we play; The Fields of Athenry, Roddy McCorley, Foggy Dew, Si Bheag Si Mohr and others. Tony had an interesting collection of whistles including a low D. This of course was very interesting for Renate who gained much from the experience. Sadly, the low D whistle was too much of a stretch for Renate's small hands.

Soon afterwards we took another rental car and made our way north to Tucson. The journey was uneventful and we soon found ourselves in a reasonably priced motel in Tucson. It will surprise no one to read that the beer supply aboard the good ship had to be purchased from retail outlets and that this was proving to be irksome. Fortunately, Cooper's home brew beer is available in the USA and their distribution centre for the entire USA is located in Tucson. A year's supply of beer kits and brewing sugars and accessories was what we were after, enough to last until we get back to New Zealand. The prospect of paying retail prices for beer in French Polynesia was unappealing. Our story piqued the interest of the Cooper's staff who introduced us to Michael Shearer the general manager of Cooper's Australia. We had a long yarn with Michael about our adventure during which we were able to establish mutual acquaintances from Opua( NZ), where Michael and his wife had done some sailing recently. It was fantastic to come away with everything that we needed, enjoy good conversation and some generous discount on our larger than usual purchase.

With the staff of Cooper's Mr Brew. Michael Shearer centre.

On leaving the one stop brew shop we drove on to Phoenix in search of long list of items for the boat and dinghy construction and bulk dried food items to store away. Surprisingly, in the middle of the desert there is a thriving boating community whose needs are supplied by a quite substantial West Marine chandler. There are apparently a large number of lakes for boaters to enjoy in the region. Our long list that included tools, materials and parts was completely fulfilled. It was even possible to order some canvas to make new sails.

Eventually the day dawned when it was time for Renate to start the journey home to New Zealand. It was daunting for me to start the next stage of the adventure without my capable companion, driving a rental car to Mexico, on the wrong side of the road, full of dutiable goods that I sought to conceal from Mexican Customs. In the event I drove through the border at Nogales without hindrance, no passport control, vehicle check or Immigration. Nothing. Renate faced the daunting task of clearing out her home of 25 years and handing over Renahara to new owners. She has been very grateful for the support and assistance of the Skovlund family during the process.

Having unloaded and returned the rental car it was time to start the dinghy build and brew some beer. As I write the beer is almost ready to drink and the dinghy almost built. From the time that the timber was delivered the project has taken three weeks, good progress. It is satisfying when a pile of timber suddenly begins to take on the shape of boat. There has been a lot of interest in the project in  the yard with people stopping by daily to review progress.

About a week until paint is applied.

The next stage of the adventure will begin with haul out on Monday the 18th of November which will include painting, anti fouling, rudder modification, propeller change and later, sail making. A busy time ahead.